|Sizes Available:||Pint, Quart, Gallon Kits|
Instructions for Safe Use
|Read complete English and Spanish instructions HERE before beginning project.|
|Read complete English and French instructions HERE before beginning project.|
Surface must be level, dry and free from oil, dust and wax. To catch drips, cover surrounding area with waxed paper, newspaper or drop cloth. Allow drips to flow freely off the sides by elevating area to be coated.
Seal Coats: For porous surfaces, a thin sealer coat is recommended. Certain woods with open grains such as oak and walnut will allow air to escape causing bubbles.Porous fabrics or papers should follow these steps as well. These applications require a thin coat of Glaze Coat prior to the full flood coating. Mix about 1/4 the amount normally used for a full flood coat and spread it thinly over entire surface. This will seal air passages. Allow to cure approximately 4-5 hours at 70 °F (21 °C).
Drips: Before pouring, protect the sides and edges of the surface area of item being coated with several layers of masking tape. After curing, remove the tape and any drips along with it. Otherwise, drips may be scraped with a putty knife about 30-40 minutes after pouring, or they may be sanded after completely cured.
STEP 1: MEASURE
Pour equal parts each of resin and hardener into separate clean, unwaxed disposable paper or plastic cups or tubs. Mix MUST be a one-to-one ratio (by volume), meaning equal parts resin and hardener. If possible, use a calibrated container.
STEP 2: MIX
FIRST MIX: Pour the carefully measured Hardener (Side B) into the container with measured Resin (Side A) and thoroughly mix for six minutes. Mix with a stir stick using vigorous, steady revolution. With proper mixing, some air bubbles occur naturally and can be removed after the pour (see Step 4). It is very important to scrape all sides and the bottom of the container with your stirring stick as you mix.
SECOND MIX: Pour the Resin and Hardener mixture from first mix into a clean mixing container and thoroughly mix for another six minutes.
It is EXTREMELY IMPORTANT to follow Step 1 and Step 2 as described above. DO NOT allow mixture to sit (or it will harden), overheat and become hot to the touch.
This step is very important to ensure a complete mix.
1st Cup - Resin into Hardener: 6 minutes
2nd Cup - Resin/Hardener mixture into new clean container: 6 minutes
NOTE: When the resin and hardener are first poured together, the initial mixture appears hazy.
NOTE: If temperature is above 70 °F, working time decreases; lower temperatures increase working time.
STEP 3: POUR
Pour Glaze Coat IMMEDIATELY onto the center of the surface to be covered. Do not allow it to “sit”. You have about 15-20 minutes working time before product begins to harden. Spread the mixture over the area with a plastic spreader, plastic squeegee, notched trowel or brush. If coating a large surface such as tables, bar tops, etc., a notched squeegee or trowel works well. Pour mixture on surface and spread evenly using a combing action in one direction over entire surface. Do not persist in re-spreading the mixture as it sets up, otherwise it will not self-level during the curing action.
STEP 4: SURFACE BUBBLES
At initial pour, air bubbles created during the mixing process will usually rise to the surface by themselves and disappear. However, because Glaze Goat is very thick, it is usually necessary to help this process along immediately after pouring and spreading. Surface bubbles MUST be removed when surface is still wet, not once surface begins the curing process or else bubbles will turn into dimples once fully cured. Blow gently on the surface to force bubbles up and away.
For larger areas, use a small handheld propane torch. Keep flame 6 to 8 inches above surface. Move torch over freshly poured Glaze Coat several times until surface is bubble free. Be sure to use a waving action so the surface is only slightly warmed, allowing remaining air bubbles to disappear. Do not hold flame in one area.
STEP 5: CURING
To achieve best results, apply at temperatures between 70 and 80 °F. Both Glaze Coat and the item to be coated should be approximately the same temperature. Allow fresh pours to cure in a warm room (at least 70 °F). Glaze Coat will fully cure in 72 hours. An additional 1 - 2 coats may be applied after 4 - 5 hours. A third coat can be poured after 24 hours but no longer than 48 hours.
If applying in an area where dust or other particles are present, temporary cover or protection may be desired.
STEP 6: CLEANUP
Use acetone or alcohol for tool and work area cleanup. Glaze Coat can only be cleaned while it is still in a liquid state. After it has cured, paint remover, heat gun or sanding is required.
CAUTION: Always use plenty of soap and water to wash skin.
|TECHNICAL DATA SHEET|
|US English document
Australian - New Zealand document
What is FAMOWOOD GLAZE COAT High Build Epoxy Coating?
FAMOWOOD Glaze Coat is superior, ultra clear, two-part, 1:1, high build epoxy coating.
What is FAMOWOOD GLAZE COAT High Build Epoxy Coating used on?
Glaze Coat may be used on a variety of surfaces: smooth or rough, stained or painted:
• Pine Cones
• Oil Paintings
• Unfired Clay
Is FAMOWOOD GLAZE COAT heat resistant?
Heat resistance is approximately 120 °F once fully cured. Coaster or hot pads MUST be used when placing hot objects on Glaze Coated surfaces. Hot objects may leave impressions on a FAMOWOOD Glaze Coat surface. The Glaze Coat is tough, yet flexible to avoid shattering on impact. Impressions usually disappear in a few hours at normal 72-75 °F room temperatures. The warmer the environment, the quicker impressions appear and disappear.